Zambia
June/July 2005

"The real Africa" - Zambia. It was the second time, that I made myself on the way to southern Africa. A time journey to the past and also a journey to a beautiful nature.
This time were we seven friends. With two cars we wanted to explore Zambia. In some national parks you had to drive with two cars for safety reasons. But actually, it happened nothing. Only a flat tire on a pved road... Compared to our first Trip it was less spectacular. Zambia also developed itself further in the past two years, for the country an advantage, but bad for the adventure-level. Anyway, you still find lovely places far away from any civilization, where the sprit of the real Africa is alive.
In our Africa Outfit we stood on the Frankfurt Airport. The destination was called Johannesburg. There we hired our well-known Landrover Defender, our new home for the upcoming three weeks. The first two days we drove north, crossing Botswana, along the Lake Kariba in Zambia to Chirundu. The small border-town in the southeast is a transit place. Here very many trucks come over the border of Zimbabwe, in order to make there way over the escarment. You see many accidents on the way. I assume. that truck driver is probably one of the most dangerous jobs in Zambia. The first camping site was close to the Lower Zambezi NP. A marvellous Lodge. The camping site was direct on the bank of a small river. A fantastic sunset crowned the evening and we enjoyed our first barbecue. In the morning we drove further on to the Lower Zambezi NP. To reach the main gate was already an experience, we had to cross a small river. First, we were not sure if it would be the right way, but tracks led the way. Yes, we were right and we reached the park. The national park is not very touristic and it is absolutely unexplored. The animals are more nervous and shey, but nature is still very original. On a self-guided night safari we saw the first leopard, where Sven got so nervous that he blow the horn. The rangers were not so lucky about us, because we told them, that we will be out the park at 6pm  - however what can you do, when the GPS leaves you alone; -)
On the next day, we followed Sambesi. We spent a complete day on the river and saw the animal world in a very lazy atmosphere. Also the animals were very close and we saw them all: Hippos, elephants, water buffalos, sea-eagles, Kudus, Impalas, bushbocks, etc.. A wonderful day.
Only a few crazy Germans drive it - said out guide: the Chakwenga route. That was reason enough to try it also. It starts in the Lower Zambezi NP and goes across the escarpment to the north. The start is difficult to find, but with the help of the GPS we were lucky. On the way were many Tse-Tse-Flies. However, the view was unbelievable and so stopped a lot to look in the Sambesi valley. At the end, we did the way and reached the well-known Great-East-Road.
A day later we reached the South Luangwa NP. The most touristic and well-known park of Zambia. The way north was hard, cause of bad roads and it remembered me the first visit. Anyway, the park compensated everything. A wonderful variety of animals - by the way we saw again a leopard - expected us. I, like everytime, was impressed by the night-sky of Africa. Simply indescribably beautifully. We booked upon every possibility they offered in the park,m, also Game Walks - the different way of a safari. Gladly I think back of the spontaneous organized night safari under some influence of alcohol . With seven people in and on the Landrover we looked for lions and had success!
We continued our way into a small park, named Luambe NP. Completely unaffected and a bad infrastructure reminded us to early days of civilization. We reached the only camp in the park in the evening and were surrounded by people from our home state. Carola, at present manager of the camp, was originally from Bad Salzuflen and made her Abitur one year before me on my school. I could not believe it. In addition we met Ulli, a spring-builder, from Lage (which is also very close).
We drove a few loops the next morning and headed for the Lavushi Manda NP. Now we had to experience that you can't plan a three week Africa vacation, like a "normal" vacation. The ferry, which should carry us over the Luangwa, did not drive - because the boatsman was missing. Approximately 20 meters separated us from the other bank and itz was impossible to cross the river. No chance, therefore we decided to turn. There was no alternative. Thus we had to cancel the Lavushi Manda NP and Kasanka NP, I was somewhat sad.
The alternative was the Chobe NP in Botswana. But first we drove on the fastest way to the Kafue NP. There we spent three beautiful days. However also many tourists were there, completely different than two years ago. The South Africans seem to have discovered Zambia after the collapse of Simbabwe. Also many bush fires in the park were to be seen. In addition, we saw leopards here... A full success!
We did not know the south of the Kafue NP so far. The landscape is very beautiful. And we stopped at our camp, near the Itezi Tezhi dam. Only animals were not many there. But it was relaxing.
The Victoria Falls in Livingstone fascinated me. This time you saw much more of teh falls, than 2003. It had less of foam and you  could see the dimension of the falls much better. Dirk and I visited the falls ate sunset, fascinatingly and beautifully! Naturally we joined the falls also with daylight and enjoyed the view of the double rainbow in the foam. A further great experience was rafting on the "Mighty Zambezi". It is considered as the most difficult rafting, which beginners can drive. At this time you only can do radid 10-23. Too little water. We did not have the most difficult level 5 thus. Anyway, we had some 4. I was a little reserved, but afterwards I really enjoyed it. In a High Pressure zone we jumped in the water and slid with the boat by the river. Amusing feeling only, when we saw a 1,20m crocodile, when we were again in the boat... I can only recommend it thus to everyone! Rafting is wonderful!
The last stay was in the Chobe NP. We already knew this park.  And it lost nothing of  its beauty. Many animals and a incredible view on the Chobe River. Unfortunately we applied too late to our camping site, so that we did not reach before sunset. So we decided to drive to Johannesburg., without one night in the park.
Johannesburg is considered as the most dangerous city of the world. I was impressed and afraid of the giant smog cloud over the city. Juergen, a friend from Johannesburg, showed us around in Johannesburg. Nol one drives to downtown, therefore we drove to Melville to a Pizzeria and had some  cocktails. On the last day we spent the morning in a Mall, before we began the return flight.
Africa was again impressing and beautiful. An incredible animal world... And a special experience... And it grounds you, because people there are so lucky and problems we have, are nothing there. I saw many children, for whom the future is questionable. But it is also a good feeling, if one can bring a smile to their face. Enjoys the pictures!
Thanks also to my friends: Alex, Britta, Sven, Anett, Dirk, Thomy and particularly my tent-partner Thomas. We had fun. But the talking-level from the car must be increased ; -)

HP: Many greetings to Juergen and thank you!

Moonrise at the Sambesi	Water-Buffalo	Elephant in the im Lower Zambezi NP
"Jungle"-View	Snapshot	Giraffe
Kafue River	Luangwa River	A Lion
Our Landrover	A chameleon	Victoria Falls

	"Lipper" in the jungle: "Schoolmeeting" with Carola in the Luambe NP

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